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Q: What’s Happening With My Isolated Extension Handle?

Q: “Hi there. M. D., order number xx the isolated extension handle, received the handle, I’ve got a body contact cable, and there’s a significant loss of power going out to the extension handle and the electrodes barely light. If you can let me know about it, I would appreciate it. Thank you.”

extension handle

(Email response, 03/13/18)

A: Hi M! There aren’t any parts to go wrong in cables or handles, they are just wire+sockets.  They can’t get clogged.  And the isolated handle that goes on your body contact is a tool to give you some flexibility.  They do work together with the other parts of your setup, so we have to look at your entire setup.  While these handles were invented to use metal electrodes for branding, they have a great deal of other uses and flexibility.   But…The strength and type of output you receive at the final end of your setup depends upon your power supply at the start of your setup (the violet wand), everything in between, and what you attach to the other end of your setup (the accessory or electrode). Since you’ve just thrown two more accessories between your wand and your electrode,  follow with me so we can see if we can tweak your setup and get more of what you want. I dont know what you’ve got in your setup, or what you know and what you don’t know about violet wands, so please be patient while I cover all the aspects. Then you can read what applies to you, or move past what doesn’t.  I just want to be sure I cover everything. Some of this may be a lot more advanced than you need or wanted, but if I give it all to you, you’ll be able to use what you want for what works for you.  And/or be able to use it later.  Once you get beyond the basic plug-in electrodes, you’re going to find there’s a lot you can experiment with and Im going to go into some of that.

Start with your violet wand

So lets start with your violet wand.    Your violet wand is the power supply.   Think of the spark as a baseball, and a strong Red Sox pitcher throwing the baseball or a 10 year old little league player.  When the 10 year old throws the spark, he doesn’t have the same muscle, so the spark doesn’t travel as far as when the Red Sox Pitcher throws it.  Our products are made for Tesla type electromechanical wands, the heavy duty ones.  The Tesla Violet Wands have the most power to push current through cables and handles and our thicker glass electrodes.  Voltage is the strength of spark, but the amperage of your violet wand is how far the current will carry that spark, and the wattage is how much power will be behind it.  With more accessories in your setup, you’re giving the spark more distance to go and some connections to push through.

If you have a new electro-mechanical (tesla type) violet wand then you’ve got the strongest spark voltage/current (amperage) and wattage behind you throwing that spark-baseball, so you’re good there.  But with antiques or electronic and solid states, or even old teslas, it could be all over the place and no results can be guaranteed.   There are still things you can do with the handle and the electronic/solid states, so if you’ve got a solid state, I’ll cover all the tweaks at the end.

The body contact cable

Body contact cables differ in quality.  The insulation on the outside of a body contact cable is not to keep you from getting shocked, but to keep more of the electricity flowing on the cable to get to the end point.  High frequency, high voltage current leaks out into the air in an electromagnetic field.  (Which you can test how much you’re losing, Ill tell you how then*).  So the better quality body contact cables keep more of the current on the inside of the cable, and the more that is kept on the inside of the cable, the more will be available at the end of the whole setup.  We’ve seen some sellers use cable tv coaxial cable for their body contacts, and those lose a lot of strength along the way.  Let’s see how much you’re losing with the cable.

Testing- we’re going to test all the parts of your setup so you can see how they work by themselves, then work together, so you can tweak it to get it to do what you want.

1) Test the wand. Plug in your wand.  Dont plug any electrodes or accessories into it.  Turn it on at full power. Touch the end of the wand, putting your finger in the nosecone until you get a spark.  In this way you can feel how much raw discharge you start off with. This is your available power.

2) Test the wand+ extension handle.  Use a metal electrode into your wand. If you don’t have a metal electrode, use a long nail or other metal object.  One that will reach down into the wand and up into the handle. set them all together, so that wand is connected to the handle, with this metal electrode or object. You can set it all down on a table. Now turn on the wand at full power.  Touch the open end of the handle where the electrodes will come out of.  Now you can plainly see the handle is not clogged and works fine, because the spark comes through it without any real noticeable difference to the spark of #1 when it is raw coming straight from the wand.  The handle is obviously not the problem, because the spark is plenty strong coming from wand+handle.  so what is?  And what can you do about it? let’s keep going.

3) Test wand+cable. Plug in your wand.  Plug in your cable, and lay it out flat along its length.  Turn on the wand at full power.  Touch the far end of the cable.  In this way, you can feel exactly how much current you have after it goes through the cable. You will have some loss on the cable, and that’s going to differ between every wand+every cable. But Ill show you how to find out later, how much you’re losing from the cable.

3) Test the wand+cable+handle. Plug in your cable, and lay it out flat along its length.  Add the isolated extension handle.  Turn on the wand at full power.  Touch the collet port of the handle.  (without anything inside it)  Now you know how much current you have to work with after it goes from wand>cable>handle. You will have a bit more loss between the cable end and the handle end.  But with a strong enough wand (pitcher) behind that spark-baseball, you can tell immediately that its still going to be strong enough to do what you add on NEXT—the electrode.

4) Test the wand+cable+handle+metal electrode.  plug in your wand.  Plug in your cable, and lay it out flat along its length.  Add the handle.  Plug in a metal electrode.  Turn on the wand at full power.  Touch the end of the metal electrode.  Now you know how much current comes through wand+cable+handle+metal electrode.  This is your baseline for the setup you want–when you test it with a metal electrode.

Remember, it starts with your violet wand.

Only a red sox pitcher is going to get the ball across a major league field, and the more distance you add onto to your setup, the stronger he is going to have to be to throw the ball over the distance.  I don’t know your type of violet wand, but your wand is your  power supply and it is your only power supply. Nothing will make it stronger.  Every time you add something to your setup, you’re going to add more ‘distance’ for your wand to pitch the spark.  So look at your pitcher (your violet wand) first. If you’ve got pretty much the same strength of spark the whole way through steps 1-4, then lets move to the next step.

5) Test the wand+cable+handle+glass electrode.  plug in your wand.  Plug in your cable and lay it out flat on its full length. Add the handle. Put in a glass electrode. Turn your wand onto full power.  Touch the end of the glass electrode.  Now you’ve added a big buffer of glass onto your setup, and its going to be a lot different than the metal electrode.  Glass blocks electricity. Its an insulator.  It works with violet wands because violet wands are strong enough to push the current through the glass electrode when it comes right out of the wand.  But once you start adding to your setup, and creating distance, now a violet wand has to be pretty strong indeed to pitch the spark from the wand, down the cable, through the connections in the handle, and through the Buffer of the insulating glass of the glass electrode.

Solid states

If you’ve got a solid state wand, you may not be happy at this point.  You’ve added a ton of distance, several connections and a blocking glass buffer to your setup.  But after doing steps 1-5 you’ll know where the most loss is happening and there’s a lot you can do to tweak your setup.  But we have one more test, to see how much current you’re leaking to the air from your body contact cable.

6) Plug in the wand.  Plug in the cable and lay it out flat on its full length.  Add the extension handle.  Put in a glass electrode.  Turn your wand on to full power.  Now, hold a fluorescent bulb, any type fluorescent–spiral type, or tube type– in the air above your setup while its running.  Slowly bring the bulb closer to the cable.  It is going to start lighting up when it gets near the cable.  This is because the electrical discharge from the violet wand is leaking into the air.  (called the corona discharge) and there is enough electricity leaked into the air to light the bulb at a distance.  you can use this as an intuitive meter to see how much current you’re leaking from the cable. You wont leak any from the Handle, because the handle is closed cell neoprene foam and the electricity can’t leak through that, though it can leak from either end of the handle since they are exposed metal.  If you’re holding the bulb above your cable and the lightbulb is lighting up more than a few inches away from the cable, you’re leaking a lot of electricity from the cable.  Holding it above your setup, move the bulb back and forth over your entire setup, seeing how close you have to get before the bulb lights up from the electricity leaking into the air.  You’ll have to get closer to the glass electrode to make it light, because glass blocks electricity.

You might notice with the bulb-meter that you’re leaking a lot of electricity into the air.  There’s things we can tweak to help keep it from leaking, and get more current flowing to your end electrode, so dont give up yet.  At this point, you may have discovered you have some things working against the spark; a solid state wand, a leaky body contact cable, too many connections, a glass electrode.  So if that setup is not doing what you want, its time to tweak your setup and work with the tools and accessories you have to get the results you want.

I’m assuming you want to keep the wand>cable>extension handle>electrode setup

So these tweaks will be for THAT setup configuration.  Experiment with them, using one or more, till you achieve results you want

  • Since glass is a buffer and blocks electricity, use a metal electrode instead of a glass one
  • Use a condensor glass electrode, instead of a plain glass one.  Condensor electrodes have metal structures inside them that boost the charge.
  • Use a thin glass electrode instead of a thick glass electrode.  The thicker the glass, the more electricity it blocks.
  • If you find the metal electrodes too strong, use a lightbulb adapter and experiment with lightbulbs.  Yes, glass blocks electricity, and you’re adding one more connection.  But the thinner glass and harder vacuum of some lightbulbs, plus some have metal filaments which will be a big boost, will override that and some of them will be in a range between metal electrode and glass electrode
  • Wrap your body contact cable insulated part in aluminum foil (temporary) or foil tape (semi-permanent.)  Doing this makes a Faraday Cage around your body contact cable, and keeps more electricity IN the cable.  Your wand, especially if solid state, might then have enough oomph (amperage) to carry more of the current to the end without losing so much to the air. You’re improving the ability of the body contact cable to hold onto more current and get it where you want it to go.
  • Use a shorter body contact cable. Shorter cable means less loss to the air, and less distance needed to pitch the spark so you can use a minor league pitcher
  • Place a conductive mylar blanket (emergency blanket) under your bottom partner.  This will draw more electricity to your bottom partner, theoretically over-writing some of the loss you may have at different points in your setup
  • You might have to send your pitcher to the showers.  I dont know what wand you have, but only the top-notch solid states will be able to power this setup of wand>cable>handle>glass electrode. If you have an old tesla type, it may be time to send it to the minor leagues too

Mike, please dont hesitate to ask if you need more info, or if this didn’t address your questions in the way you want. Violet wands can be very simple and take only 5 minutes to learn how to use them. But to Master them can be a long but exciting journey. The more you get into it, the more you’ll find to learn. Im in my 20th year and still learning new things, new ways that people find to use them, new techniques that people invent. Its wonderful, and I hope that by the end of your experimenting with what I’ve written here, you’ll be happy with the results.

Wanda

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